Sat Peak, which an Italian expedition failed to summit in 2022, was successfully first-ascended this year by the 2026 Himalaya Sat Peak Expedition. This is a session where you can hear the full story from expedition leader An Chi-young and his six team members - the moments harder than the summit itself, the choices made possible only because they were together, and the preparation process and behind-the-scenes stories.
In the Sharphu range of the Kangchenjunga region in the Nepal Himalaya, there stood a peak that no one had set foot on for a long time: SAT PEAK, an unclimbed summit at 6,220 m above sea level. With steep snow walls, sharp ice ridges, and mixed rock-and-ice sections, this peak had only been reached to its 6,100 m forepeak by an Italian expedition in 2022 - the true summit had never allowed a human presence.
In spring 2026, expedition leader An Chi-young and six team members set out for that summit. Departing Korea on April 11, they established a base camp and, over 29 days, worked their way up the peak step by step in alpine style, minimizing outside support. After enduring stretches of being weather-bound by severe conditions, three team members finally set the first footprints on May 2 on a summit that had until then existed only on maps, achieving the world's first ascent.
Why did An Chi-young, a veteran mountaineer with experience on the Lhotse South Face, Everest, Gasherbrum, and Dharamsura, choose once again to take on 'a mountain no one had climbed'? The moments harder than the summit, the choices made possible only because they were together, and the meaning of opening up an unclimbed peak - over the course of an hour, meet in person the story of the 2026 Himalaya Sat Peak Expedition, who came closer to that summit than anyone before.
¡á Date/Time: Sep. 19(Sat), 2026 17:00
¡á Venue: Seminar Room
¡á Participants
Talk: An Chi-young (Team Leader), Choi Hyung-wook (Administration), Lee Eui-jun (Equipment), Baek Jong-min (Documentation), Lee Sang-kook (Food), Bae Seo-young (Communications), Choi Ji-ho (Transport)
Moderator: Seo Hyunwoo
*This program is free of charge.
He has climbed numerous Himalayan peaks across Nepal, India, Pakistan, and Tibet, and this year I returned after successfully ascending the unclimbed Sat Peak (6,220m), rising deep in the remote eastern region of Nepal. He does not see mountains as objects to conquer, but as a world where humans and nature coexist together. While climbing in the Himalayas, he has learned the profound depth of nature through endless silence, and as an alpinist, he continues to explore the direction and essence of life through pure mountaineering.
¡Û Climbing Experience
2019 Completed Rock Climbing Course, Jung Seung-kwon Alpine School
2020 Completed Big Wall Climbing Course, Jung Seung-kwon Alpine School
2021 Completed Ice Climbing Course, Jung Seung-kwon Alpine School
2021 Single-pitch climbing in the Krabi area, Thailand
2022 Completed the 50km course, Seoul International Ultra Trail Running Race
2023 Completed the 100 Waterfalls of Jajeunbawi Valley, Seoraksan; ice climbing in Sotowang Valley
¡Û Affiliation
Mountain On Alpine Club
¡Û Climbing Experience
2023 Ascent of Uchitel Peak (4,543m), Ak-Sai, Kyrgyzstan
2023 Ascent of Korona Peak I (4,800m), Ala-Archa
2023 Climbed the West Summit of Uchkenka (4,650m), Alamedin
¡Û Affiliation
Kwangwoon University Alpine Club
¡Û Climbing Experience
Pioneered rock routes and ridge lines at Yuseondae, Chuncheon
2016 Ascent of Ganja La Peak (5,675m), Nepal
2017 Ascent of the Matterhorn (4,478m), Switzerland
2021 World first ascent of Mariyang Peak (6,528m), Nepal
2024 World first ascent of Jugal I (6,591m), Nepal
2025 Ascent of Khüiten Peak (4,374m), Mongolia
¡Û Affiliation
Chuncheon Hanbit Alpine Club
¡Û Climbing Experience
2016 Completed Big Wall Climbing Course (13th class), Jung Seung-kwon Alpine School
2016 Traverse of the Japanese North Alps
2017 Ascent of Tangerine Trip, El Capitan, Yosemite
2018 Completed Snow Climbing Course (33rd class), Kolon Alpine School
2022 Ascent of Ama Dablam (6,812m), Nepal Himalaya
2023 Ascent of Lenin Peak (7,134m), Kyrgyzstan
¡Û Affiliation
Yeonsanjiu Alpine Club
¡Û Climbing Experience
2025 Ascent of Mont Blanc (4,810m) via the Cosmiques Route, the Alps
2025 Climbed the Hörnli Ridge, Matterhorn (4,478m), the Alps
¡Û Affiliation
Korea Alpine School / Mountaineering Education Committee, Seoul Alpine Federation
¡Û Climbing Experience
2024 Winter training at Yatsugatake, JapanKeimyung University Alpine Club
A journalist for the monthly magazine San. He writes about the many kinds of people who climb, from Korea's leading high-altitude mountaineers to children just setting out on the trail.